Complexion and local blemishes

This topic is cosmetic, not medical, and the tradition treats it that way: rinses, compresses, plant oils. The thirteen species the catalogue lists here form a mostly European complexion set — wild pansy and white dead-nettle from folk skin care, with pot marigold, common mallow and plantain to soothe, and English lavender with rosemary for the scent.

Three imported species complete it — neem, marula and candlenut — entering the same role from other traditions. The frame is external and everyday for all of them.

Acne arises in the sebaceous unit and is governed by hormones, keratinisation and bacterial flora — it is not dirt that could be washed off or 'flushed out from outside'. The idea of skin dirty from within is folk, not physiological.

For plant extracts the evidence is mostly cosmetic: hydration, tolerability, subjective feel. A therapeutic effect on inflammatory acne is documented for prescription medicines, and the difference between that and an oil is an order of magnitude.

Painful nodules under the skin, acne that leaves scars and pus-filled inflammation belong with a dermatologist — effective treatment exists, and delay does not improve it.

Sudden extensive redness with burning, a rash after starting a new medicine, and any skin care during a planned pregnancy while a retinoid is being used also need professional advice.